It’s always disappointing when a song isn’t about biscuits, but hey. The Hold Steady’s cranky lyrical genius has been making critics gush for three years now, but it’s only as they release their weakest album that they’ve finally won a UK deal. So this one’s actually about love, but on the upside it’s crammed with bar-room Springsteen riffs that are practically asking The Killers out. Whaddayasay, Brandon? You just gonna stand there and take it?